Southern Spain – November 2012 – Day 8 (Seville)

Friday November 23, 2012

The next morning, I felt horrible.  There was no way we were going to Cordoba as planned. It looked like it was going to be bed rest for me. What happened next I wouldn’t wish upon on my sworn enemy.  I fell asleep and when I woke up I noticed I pooped in my pants. It wasn’t just a drop in my underwear.  It had oozed onto the bed sheets.  I went to the bathroom, threw away my underwear, cleaned up myself and put on a clean pair.  I went back to sleep and an hour later it was like Groundhog’s Day.  I had pooped my pants again.  Same clean up regimen and I went back to sleep for good.  When I awoke a few hours later I still felt the same, so I knew it was time.  I asked Jen to go downstairs and get me some milk, but all I really wanted was some privacy.  Overlooking the tub, I put my finger down my throat and began the recovery process.  The next five minutes, I split my time between the tub and the toilet.  I’m not trying to go into graphic detail, but be forewarned your body may have a tough time adjusting to the Iberian seafood waters.  A quick shower, a little more rest and I was ready to see more of Seville.


In a lot of pain in my hotel room – Seville, Spain

We started with a flamenco show at the Museo del Baile Flamenco.  I wasn’t expecting much, Flamenco dancing fell into the “Things a Tourist Should Do” category rather than something I was really looking forward to.  After the day I had, all I really wanted was a large order of orange chicken from Panda Express.  The show started out with the MC giving us a roundup of the night’s proceedings in five or so languages.  Then out came the dancers followed by the music.  There’s no video allowed, but I wish I would have taken some because the show really surprised us.  On the outside they were dancing, but on the inside I could feel them making love.  There was a history between the dancers that was evident to me.  Maybe not to the rest of the patrons, but I could see it.  I couldn’t translate the music lyrics, yet I felt they dated when they were younger.  Something broke them apart.  Perhaps work or distance, maybe another lover.  The guitar player looked innocent enough, but the passion with which he belted out his long songs, his eye contact, there was a chance he was involved in this love triangle. By the third act, both dancers were sweating, the guitar player’s forehead was far from dry, I was even sweating.  And then in a flash, it was over.  I’m not sure where their love will go from here.  I for one, wanted to find out more.  I purchased a CD from the show and listened to it when I got home.  It’s still beyond me what brought them together or what tore them apart, but Luz en los Balcones was my favorite song. We both highly recommend this show!


Typical tapas Menu in Seville, Spain


Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancers – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco singer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain


Flamenco dancer – Museo del Baile Flamenco, Seville, Spain

It was 9 PM and was I ready for our first meal of the day. With thousands of tapas restaurants in Seville, it can be overwhelming to choose a few for a trip, but with the  help of our tour guide from the previous night, Shawn, and her website  it was a breeze. She has reviewed over a hundred of her favorites, ranks the best and has plenty of pictures.  She loves what she does and that enthusiasm was very evident.  I only wish we could of enjoyed our time together a little more. Eslava is high on Shawn’s list for modern tapas and is ranked #1 on Tripadvisor.  It’s busy, so we got there early and only had to wait 15 minutes for a table outside.  If you don’t speak Spanish, you can always show your server a picture of what you want to order on your phone.  We saved all the tapas dishes we wanted to try at each place on Jen’s iPhone and, whenever we got stuck, we just showed our server a picture and that usually solved the problem.  We tried five dishes, some basic, some that just looked good and one that was out of our comfort zone. Our favorites were the solomillo (pork tenderloin) in dill sauce and the free range egg on top of wild mushroom soufflé with caramelized wine sauce.  The mushroom soufflé won the annual tapas competition a couple years ago.  I also appreciated the greasiness of the pork ribs. The blood cubes were our ‘out of our comfort zone’ order and were ok.

Calle Eslava, 3-5
41002 Seville, Spain


Eslava, Seville, Spain


Menu – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Olives and beans – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Fried boquerones 4/10 – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Free range egg on top of wild mushroom soufflé with caramalised wine sauce 9/10 – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Solomillo/pork tenderloin in dill sauce 7/10 – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Fried blood cubes with onions 3/10 – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Pork ribs in honey sauce 7/10 – Eslava, Seville, Spain


Seville at night – Seville, Spain


Seville at night – Seville, Spain

We walked over to La Azotea.  Again, another modern tapas bar.  Also under the La Azotea umbrella is La Azotea Vinos & Más and La Azotea Zaragoza.  Also busy, it was 10 minutes for two seats at the bar.  They were extremely friendly and we felt at home from the moment we sat down.  We started off with an order of the rice paper triangles stuffed with cheese, prawns and leeks and it was one my favorite dishes in Seville. As we were enjoying our tapas we saw some of their regular dishes come out and many of those looked very good.

La Azotea
Calle Jesus del Gran Poder, 31
41002 Seville, Spain


La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Bar seating – La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Olives – La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Rice paper triangles stuffed with cheese, prawns and leeks 10/10 – La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Daily specials – La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Fresh grilled hake, served in its own broth, and garlic mouse 4/10 – La Azotea, Seville, Spain


Carrillada Ibérica in red wine with gratinated goat cheese 6/10 – La Azotea, Seville, Spain

We walked through Constitución Avenue and hailed a cab back to the hotel for the night.


Confitería Filella (Avenida de la Constitución, 2) – Seville, Spain

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